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Climate Change
By Len Mozer
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| Commonwealth Home Fashions is
highlighting Debonnaire, which offers a woven menswear look in a printed floral with bling, and Kona, a floral print accented with sparkling glitz. |
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| At Croscill Home, look for some gender-neutral styles such as a jacquard in a swirl design shown in gold with copper and with sage, as well as Raquel, a printed floral sheer with subtle metallic yarns. |
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| TexStyle is again highlighting its Green House earth-friendly collection, including Rep Stripe, a semi-sheer with alternating woven stripes; Crossroads, a hybrid of cotton and bamboo, as well as Rudin, an embroidered floral. |
As New York market opens, vendors hope the weather stays mild and the economic climate brightens in 2008
As the New York Home Fashions Market opens Feb. 11, vendors at the showroom buildings are hoping that the weather stays mild and sunny throughout the week. The last thing they want is a repeat of the snowstorm that hit the city last year.
But industry suppliers of curtains and draperies are hoping even more that the nation’s economic climate will brighten as the Spring selling season gets underway. Right now, they’re not too sanguine about this prospect.
That’s because, though a few companies recorded some single-digit growth in 2007, most vendors report their business was “quite soft” in the second half which they attribute to a sharp drop in consumer traffic and sales activity for many of the window fashions retailers across the country.
Recession Threat & Rising Costs
Key factors in this decline, they note, are the “meltdown” in the housing market, soaring gas prices and general lowering of consumer confidence as that dirty “R” word—recession—keeps cropping up in media reports on the nation’s economy.
Executives are also becoming more concerned about the rising cost of product from China due to the creeping devaluation of the dollar vs. the yuan, higher prices for polyester fabrics, plus continuing hikes in shipping and other business expenditures.
Yet, despite these significant rising costs, vendors say retailers remain adamant in refusing to pay higher prices for their products, and in fact, are even asking for bigger markups.
As one executive comments, “Some dealers want only one price point, $19.99 or less, regardless of our cost. They don’t seem to understand that products with better fabrics, more embellishments and special tailoring simply cost more.”
“Buyers have a pre-conceived value of a product,” another vendor notes. “They feel that the retail price of a panel has to be $19.99, and working on a 56 percent or 60 percent markup, their cost has to be $9.10. So, they tell us, ‘If you can’t make it for that price, don’t show it to me’.”
Another ongoing industry concern is the growth of direct importing (D.I.) by major retail chains from factories in China and other offshore sources, by-passing their regular suppliers.
A few industry veterans say they’re spotting a trend of retailers swinging away from D.I. as they experience the pitfalls of carrying the highly sku’d inventories in draperies and curtains, “eating their mistakes,” and paying for the packaging and freight costs. But others question this as they see such stores as JCPenney’s committing heavily to direct importing.
Another major concern is that stores are taking even longer to make buying decisions. A frequent complaint heard from executives is, “Because of these delays, things bought at the August Market will just be getting into the stores in February.”
In fact, a number of the exhibitors state that these longer decision delays by retailers have negated the reason given for the switch to the earlier February and August Market dates, which was to allow for the longer time required to create and receive goods being shipped from Asian sources. As one executive put it, “So, why schedule markets for the two worst months of the year? It’s either hotter than heck or blizzards and freezing temperatures!”
New Styles Emphasize Basics
As for the new fashions debuting at this market, though some innovative styles will be offered, there’s a sense that the emphasis will be on the basics. As Carl Goldstein of S. Lichtenberg notes, “The basics continue to sell, and when you get into a recession period, the basics get even bigger.”
A different view is held by Jason Carr of Softline who says, “Price is an issue, but, everything revolves around being fresh, having fresh looks.”
The “going green” trend seen at the August market will continue to be highlighted at this event. But, the eco-friendly features will be confined primarily to more energy-saving treatments, including separate linings and interlined panels as well as blackout fabrics and foambacks.
But some vendors say that though retailers recognize the sales appeal of lined draperies in terms of insulation and a more luxurious custom look, many buyers won’t pay the added cost, so they are emphasizing their foambacks and blackout fabrics.
As to the use of natural fibers, some companies will feature their silks, linens, cottons and blends of these fibers. TexStyle will again spotlight fabrics made of hemp and bamboo.
However, don’t look for pricey organic cottons, but do expect to see more polyester fabrics in faux silks, faux linens, faux leathers and faux suedes.
Other new trends on display at the showrooms will be more grommet headings, metallic yarns, glitzy sparkle effects, elaborate embroideries, pinch pleats and new laces. Vendors relate that new lace machines and better controls of dye lots have greatly improved the quality of laces from China.
Style Highlights
Here are some new style highlights at the New York Market:
- Achim will show blackout fabrics in a solid and matching print, more tiers and coordinated ensembles with long and short panels plus placemats, towels, rugs and other accessories.
- Arley is offering more thermal lined panels plus innovative tailoring and styling in valances and other new top treatments.
- Beacon Looms is expanding its silks, including one with a “viney” embroidery trailing down the panel, a luxurious silk-linen blend and an extension of its Insuldark fabrics with insulating and room-darkening properties.
- CHF Industries will show faux leathers and suedes, including pieced panels of both fabrics with tweed, plus new velvets, more lined and interlined panels and new styles with grommet headers.
- Classic Concepts is adding two-tone curtains with grommet headers including a panel in aqua with a taupe border.
- Commonwealth Home Fashions at its revamped showroom will present new insulated panels, more styles with grommets, new treatments with inverted box pleats and extended color programs.
- Croscill Home is offering traditional weaves such as large-scale damasks, contemporary “gender neutral” tailored styles plus fabrics with hints of metallic yarns highlighting patterns.
- D. Kwitman will show a chain-stitch Swiss tambour curtain style plus new Chinese laces, including a floral in a garland to be available in balloon panels with rings and balloon valances.
- Ellery Homestyles expands its Eclipse group with thermaweave light-blocking styles in a herringbone, a satin stripe and a diamond dobby stripe, plus a slubbed linen-look and faux dupioni-silk; in its therma-backed category. New juvenile styles include a two-tone pieced voile and a colorful ruffled voile.
- Heritage Lace debuts its “vignette” program coordinating laces with non-lace silks and tapestry tabletop, a fine-gauge lace in a vine-tendril design, a grasscloth look in a double bar knit and a whimsical silhouette of flora, birds and rabbits.
- Lorraine Home Fashions expands its lined offerings to include interlinings, foambacks and a triple-weave blackout in a tier.
- National Curtain will be offering new laces from China for the first time and new foamback and pinch-pleated numbers.
- S. Lichtenberg will feature its faux silks, including a floral with slub yarns. Look for both “vivid, electric hues” and a muted palette and embellishments such as sequin flowers.
- Saturday Night Ltd. will show a new kitchen tier collection; in poly/cotton and cotton duck, an embossed blackout, a lined smocked panel that can be reversed with rod pockets at both ends and new novelty laces with Halloween and Christmas themes.
- Softline is coming out with a new line of burnout looks plus a series featuring embellishments, such as sequins, beading and appliqués, in addition to more lined and interlined panels.
- Springs Global will highlight its exotic look featuring metallic yarns and bedding, less complex tweener styles, more embroideries and appliqués and more foambacked panels.
- Stylemaster is expanding its Renaissance line, which features a decorator look, including lined pinch-pleated panels. New, too, are other lined panels, blackout fabrics and foambacks.
- TexStyle is adding a silk/cotton blend to its Green House earth-friendly collection, novelty sheers with a woven ombré stripe, some embroidered sheers, an updated lace from China, several jacquards with metallic yarns plus floral scrolls in contrasting shiny and dull surfaces.
Summing up, vendors are hopeful that their new fashions debuting at the February New York Market will give a kick-start to their business in 2008. Several companies, such as Softline and Stylemaster, are expanding their sales force in anticipation of new placements. Beacon Looms and S. Lichtenberg executives say they expect to hit their growth targets again this year.
Still, a number of other suppliers indicate that, though they’re looking for some gains in 2008, they are not expecting any miracles in the current economic climate.
Resources
- Achim, 212-685-6652, achimonline.com
- Beacon Looms, 201-833-1600, beaconlooms.com
- Classic Concepts/The Chandler Collection, 800-258-2229, thechandlercollection.com
- Commonwealth Home Fashions, 514-384-8290, commonwealthhomefashions.com
- Croscill Home, 212-689-7222, croscillhome.com
- Ellery Homestyles, 212-684-5364, elleryhomestyles.com
- Heritage Lace, 641-628-4949, heritagelace.com
- Lorraine Home Fashions, 212-684-0858, lhfonline.com
- S. Lichtenberg, 212-689-4510, lichtenberg.com
- Softline, 800-701,4220, softlineonline.com
- TexStyle, 513-272-1800, texstyle.com
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